Is it worth growing a particular vegetable when you’re constantly battling pests? I’m huge fan of brassicas such cabbage, broccoli, and cauliflower, but they can have pest issues. But there are ways to get around them. Here are a few tips on handling diseases and pest pressure on brassicas. 

Pest pressure on brassicas

Cabbage worms – This is probably the number one pest for most people who like to grow cabbage and other brassicas. You’ll see them hanging out on or underneath the leaves as they munch away destroying the plant and pooping on it as they go. Cabbage loopers are up to an inch and a half long, are pale green, and have a light stripe along their sides. In some area, imported cabbage worms are the problem. You can tell them apart because the latter has a velvety feel and has broken lines down its sides. If hand-picking isn’t cutting it, you can treat them with Bacillus thuringiensis (Bt). This will kill the pests, yet preserves the other beneficial insects.

Aphids – It is true that aphids seem to like everything, but cabbage aphids tend to focus on brassicas. Fortunately, they have weak little bodies like all other aphids. Spray them off with water, or if they’re really bad, use insecticidal soap. You’ll also want to encourage beneficial insects because so many of them love aphids for snacks. 

Flea beetles – These jumpy little insects don’t only target brassicas, but they can still be problematic. They are tiny (less than 1/4 inch) and are typically dark in color and might even be a little iridescent. But you probably won’t have a chance to take a good look at them. The easiest way to know that it is flea beetles, is when you touch a leaf they jump away. It’s also obvious that you have a problem when your leaves are riddled with holes. A good way to get a judge on the level of infestation is to use the yellow sticky traps.

Natural methods to battle flea beetles include using floating row covers from the beginning of the season to prevent them from jumping from one plant to the next.  Another option is dusting the plants with diatomaceous earth. If that doesn’t do the trick, utilizing a combination of spinosad and permethrin is your next step. And for really stubborn infestations, products with carabyl will take care of it. 

Handling diseases

Clubroot – When problems happen below the ground it can be more difficult to pinpoint the issue causing them. Clubroot, a fungal infection, is one of those situations. Young plants turn kind of a yellowish and die. They will often be miss shape in into a club like forms. If you have clubroot, pull the plants, bag them, and toss them. Do not put them in the compost pile. Do the same with all of the weeds in the patch, too, as the fungi can thrive on these, even if they don’t adversely affect them. Also, be sure to disinfect any tools you used around the plants. The clubroot spores remain viable for up to 20 years, so don’t plant brassicas in that area for at least five years, preferably longer. And opt for clubroot resistant varieties. 

Choosing Disease Resistant Varieties

Shifting the season – One way to avoid most pest problems, and even some of the disease problems, is to plant for a fall harvest. Granted, it can be more difficult to plan for a late planting, but if you have a lot of these issues, give it a try. 

It’s no fun trying to outwit pests, but the brassicas are so yummy that it’s worth it. If pests cause you problems, give these tips a try to enjoy these wonderful veggies without biting into a cabbage worm.